Part 3

Part 3 Reflection

Monday 16th April

Project Evaluation:

Has my project changed from what I initially proposed?

I wouldn’t say that my project has drastically changed from my proposal, however it has certainly developed down a different route to what I was expecting.

My concept built off from my initial theme of “Male Juvenile Delinquency” to exploring a seemingly broader however visually more focused topic of “ Parallel Journeys” within the bounds of my original concept. My project concentrates on the factors which determine a juvenile males fate and the many outcomes of fate which these factors lead to.

I would say that there is also a stronger focus on my aspect of research which highlighted Upper and Middle Class appropriation of working class culture. This is conveyed through my research of Marie Antoinette appropriating the “ Chemise a la Reine” (a Shepard’s daughters dress) and mocking the working classes by having the garment made from the finest fabrics.

If I could start my project again what would I do differently? 

I would probably consider what my concept really involves me taking visual inspiration from much more. I would better take into consideration what my design aesthetic is and the ways in which I enjoy to practically work so that I don’t have to drastically veer my tangible research into a direction which leads me to an outcome which I like. 

What is the most successful and the least successful aspect of my project? 

I would say that the most successful aspect of my project is the content of my research and how I developed my design from that. This simultaneously founded a strong concept and metaphor.

The least successful aspect of my project would probably be how many steps away my garment is from the origional questions I was trying to evoke. Although I would prefer this to my work being literal, I sometimes wonder if it isn’t direct enough.

What are my strengths and weaknesses?

I would say that my strengths are my research skills as well as my conceptual and tangible thinking.

This however also leads to my weakness which would be a reluctance to quickly and efficiently get a final design down on paper so that I have more time to make a more impressive and developed outcome.

I would say that I have strengths in making as well. I have a determination to learn new skills in a project basis to make a sophisticated outcome.

Assuming I have achieved my intended outcomes, could I now take these concepts and ideas further, and If so in which way?

I see this outcome as the first garment in a collection. With more time I would have liked to have explored a more sophisticated print which would not have cheapened my outcome.  Although conceptually I think that the neutrality of the white is appropriate, I feel that a strong print or textural element would lift a different outcome. I also like the idea of focusing on a series of garments which represent a singular case study relevant to my concept, for example twins separated at birth. 

Looking back on my project, are there any additional research, development, or outcomes I could have come up with to improve my submission?

I would say that I could have given up on the idea of multiple sleeves less quickly. Possibly using this to explore movement and having a second outcome in the form of moving image. What could blurred movement suggest? Blurred lines ? I also think that this would have helped me explore pushing the boundaries of what a garment is and constructing a less conventional silhouette.

Did I achieve what I set out to do in my proposal?

On the whole I would say that I did achieve what I proposed to do in my proposal.

Thursday 12th April

  • Photography Day:
  • Today i was really pleased with how my final images turned out.
  • I think that Stan was the perfect choice as a model and conveyed my concept whilst photographing excellently in the garment.
  • I also shot photos outside on Elthorne road so than there was an urban/ streetwear context in the image which helped give the edge which my garment somewhat lacked. 
  • This definitely helped convey my concept better and I think that putting my garment in an appropriate setting gave it a whole new dimension.

Wednesday 11th April

  • today I organised and finished everything which i needed for my photoshoot tomorrow.
  • I took the pinned top and sewed it all together making sure  to add bias binding trim on any raw edges.


  • I also organised a bag of supplies which I may need to make the garment fit in case of a last min disaster as well as white cocks and shoes for styling.

Tuesday 10th April

  • Today I spent a while on Instagram searching for foundation students who I could find which i thought would make a good choice for a model.
  • I came across Stan who had previous modelling experience for Christopher Shannon. These images had the same feel which i wanted in my own photographs so I asked for his measurements and arranged for him to wear my garment for the shoot.


  • I spend the afternoon and evening creating the patterns and toile for my shorts.
  • I wanted a very high waists so that the shorts would meet the cropped short length top half of the garment.
  • I also decided to add a stripe down the outside seam of the shorts. This is taking inspiration from many trackies such as the iconic Adidas track pants so that I was referencing my early research. 
  • However I wanted to also make sure I referenced my later research of mocking the upper classes which mock the lower classes, so I created a smocked stripe from Jacquard print poplin shirting fabric to inlay into the side of the shorts.
  • It took me hours and hours of seam ripping and re sewing as I am not the most skilled in this department however I am very pleased with how the shorts turned out.

Monday 9th April

  • Tutorial with Helmert:
  • I showed helmert an image of the pinned outcome of final design today and was very pleased with his reaction.
  • I had been considering weather it was necessary to dye my piece considering that colour research and development had been such a huge aspect of my sketchbook.
  • I also reviewed my colour samples and mock up dyed sleeves in the tutorial. 
  • After speaking it through and looking at my outcome so far,both me and Helmert didn't think that adding colour to the garment would add anything. In fact I think that dying the garment in the colour story which I had been looking at, would have cheapened the outcome and made it look more like a costume/ gimmick.
  • I had done research on why I was using White school shirts as well as what the White shirt means. 
  • Conceptually, I believe than in fact keeping the garment white is more appropriate. Since my concept has developed to parallel journeys and the multiple outcomes of ones life I think that the idea of a blank canvas is more appropriate. The white is neutral, my outcome is commenting on how I am not to dictate someones life and brand them. 
  • I also think that it will make my outcome far stronger.


  • Today I also decided on continuing the sportswear theme and looking an contemporary styling with sportswear in the form of shorts. 
  • I want to create an upper class- looking version of sportswear continuing with my undertones of appropriation. 

5th, 6th, 7th April

  • I spend the weekend sampling with collars and shirt buttons trying to consider what I wanted to do with the bottom half of my garment so that I would have a lot to show in my tutorial on monday.
  • I also spend the time sampling colour. I wasn't sure if I needed to use colour in my outcome or not and so I wanted to sample hand dying fabrics with my researched colour story so that I could visualise weather It would help my outcome.

Wednesday 4th & Thursday 5th April

  • In order to make the smocked sleeves with the school shirts I had collected I used 4 sleeves per shirt.
  • I sewed 2 of the sleeves together so that they were mirroring each other before doing the same to the other two sleeves gathering them and then sewing both halves together again.
  • I spent all day figuring out how to do this and was very happy with the result, however i decided that to ensure my sleeves fitted the model on my real final sleeves I would gather the fabric slightly less.

Monday 2nd & Tuesday 3rd April

  • I found out some very interesting research today which really helped steer my project in a new direction.
  • Marie Antionnete was made very unpopular with the working classes as she appropriated the dress of a shepards daughter ( the "Chemise a la reine" ) but had it made in with the finest most expensive fabrics.
  • this was very patronising to the working classes.
  • One iconic aspect of this dress were the puffy smocked sleeves.
  • I decided to use smocked sleeves in my garment referencing this aspect of my research which related to my earlier research of middle class appropriation of grime culture.

Sunday 1st April

  • Work all day - pause on project work, however I now have even more funds to buy materials for my Unit 7 project, so, again, not a completely useless day.

Friday 30th March

  • Work all day - pause on project work, however I now have the funds to buy materials for my Unit 7 project, so not a completely useless day.

Wednesday 28th & Thursday 29th March

  • I decided to use the shoes to create the structural element of my outcome and started to deconstruct more shoes and pin them and tie them onto the mannequin in different ways. I wanted to take reference from the school sweater vest i had looked at in my research- creating a new different V neck.
  • I was pleased with how the new way I was using the shoes considered the body much more cafefully and also became a much less obvious use of the material than what I had previously done.

Monday 26th & Tuesday 27th March

  • I spent the first few days of the easter break working in my sketchbook recording my developement.
  • I also started to work on my idea of using multiple sleeves on a garment. I collected white school shirts from friends and charity shops and spend some time with a seam ripper taking off all of the sleeves and and pinning them onto the mannequin.
  • Although I was happy with how the bulk of the many sleeves was creating an interesting silhouette and building form out from the body, I did not think that the drapes were looking at all refined or sophisticated.
  • I was also really worried that my garment would look like an octopus and a GCSE art project octopus. So In an effort to make a sophisticated and refined final outcome I went back to work in the sketchbook and topped up my research.


Thursday 22nd March

Tutorial with Helmert:

  • Todays tutorial further helped me focus my concept and ideas as well as getting a good idea as to what my final design would be.
  • Speaking to Helmert helped me to decide to focus on my idea of using white school shirts / white suit shirts and deconstructing them in my piece.
  • What does the shirt mean ? How does this relate back to my previous idea of branding ? What would one assume if a businessmen was dressed in prison orange?
  • I also really liked the idea of of having multiple sleeves on my final garment.
  • I got this idea from my conjoined twins research where I found case studies of twins with many limbs. 
  • I liked the idea of having multiple limbs/arms to represent the multiple paths which on can go down.
  • If I were to have 12 sleeves, could that represent 12 factors which I think heavily effect a young mans future? or the many possible outcomes of ones life?
  • I also would like to further research into the class system and how I could mock the upper classes within this project. How could upper class dress effect my design?

Thursday 22nd March


Thursday 22nd March


Tuesday 20th March

  • Once dried overnight I tried to peel off the images with water as instructed of the box however the images did not transfer clearly at all.
  • I found the texture left on the fabric quite interesting however not relevant to my concept.
  • I embroidered into my samples anyway to try and tell the story in my sketchbook so as to not have a completely wasted day.

Monday 19th March

  • One comment from the interim project crit which I really wanted to listen to was doing something to the shoes, changing them in some- way.
  • I wanted to consider using Image- make transfer to print images onto fabric / the shoes to use for my garment.
  • How can the print convey my concept clearer?
  • I set up the transfer with the book photocopies of conjoined twins images and left them to dry overnight.

Thursday 15th March - Mid Unit 7 Exhibition

  • Todays mid project exhibition was incredibly interesting and insightful.
  • I enjoyed seeing what the other pathways work looked like and their ways of developing a project.
  • One post it note left on my sketchbook which stuck with me was the idea of using old or used shoes and trainers. How could I collect used shoes? Could I reconstruct shoes bought from a charity shop?
  • Or how could I stain or dye the shoes to make them have an aesthetic which better conveys my project?
  • The tutor feedback I received from the AsD and PDC tutors was also very different from my usual tutorial feedback. They questioned where in world my final piece would exist? What function does it serve. Although as of yet I have no developed answer to this question: currently I would say an exhibition space would be where this piece belongs. It is a metaphor for a social issue.
  • I will dwell of this feedback thought in order to try and better my project.

Thursday 15th March - Mid Unit 7 Exhibition


Thursday 15th March - Mid Unit 7 Exhibition


Thursday 15th March - Mid Unit 7 Exhibition


Tuesday 13th & Wednesday 14th March

  • After my progress tutorial I was eager to have a physical test piece/ sample to put on the body for the interim exhibiton.
  • I reflected on my sketchbook, and the page which received the most positive feedback was my design development page where I deconstructed Nike trainers.
  • I thought about how I could actually use trainers in my work and reconstruct them into a wearable body piece. 
  • The trainers would act as a metaphor for middle class appropriation of working class / grime culture. This is reflected by how much these trainers cost and how they have become popular amongst privileged teens.
  • I spent these two days figuring out how I can make the Primark plimsoles which I bought fit around the body.
  • I made sure that I kept the theme of duality strong, so I made sure to make shapes which were symmetrical / mirror imaged with the shoes, like the rorschach test and twins research.

Monday 12th March

Progress tutorial with Helmert:

  • This Tutorial was incredibly useful today. I was feeling very stuck with my project, I was happy with how my sketchbook was looking and each individual aspect of my research and initial development however had no idea how to pull it all together.
  • This session really helped me focus my concept down.
  • After talking it through I decided to focus more on the idea of parallel lives/ journeys in terms of juvenile delinquency as opposed to solely at the very broad topic of "male juvenile delinquency"
  •  I want to focus on Duality and also on the many possible outcomes of someones life.
  • What are the factors which help determine a persons fate?
  • I would like to focus on the class system and education - how does this influence the probability of a young male ending up in prison?

Progress Tutorial


Progress Tutorial


Friday 9th March

  • As I was recording my research on the Rorschach test the mirrored ink blots reminded me of conjoined twins. 
  • I started to collect some images of conjoined twins throughout history and started to verge into research side shows, freak shows and the circus. 
  • conceptually I began drawn to this idea of branding.
  • Society's offenders are "branded" in the iconic orange jumpsuit or whichever prison uniform is enforced by a country/states regulations. 
  • In this similar way I liked the parallels that run between being branded a criminal and being branded a freak in a circus show, often how conjoined twins were seen.
  • There is also a clear visual theme of duality, how the two paths which one can walk are so clearly linked together.

Thursday 8th March

  • After yesterdays progress in my thinking and development research I once again felt stuck and was left feeling content with what my visuals were communicating however not knowing where to go with them.
  • In retrospect having maybe taken some more time to pre-plan a journey for my project may have helped me, however instead I looked back at some earlier project reflections and my write up of a tutorial I had with Tamzin where she suggested that I looked at criminal phycology and the "Rorschach Test" (more commonly known as the ink blot test).
  • I began looking at this test and the sort of imagery which is commonly seen out of the cards shown - often very sexual.
    • What are the connotations of the sort of visuals which an individual can interpret the ink blots as?
    • how could these visuals help inspire my form? or texture etc
  • I didn't want to get lost down another tangent so decided to focus on the mirrored visual of the ink blots and how I could use this idea of "mirror image" to convey my theme of parallel journeys.
  • How did this show the connection between the the different outcomes of fate and destiny and the parallel paths dictated by circumstance?

Wednesday 7th March

  • I spent the day in the library today catching up on sketchbook work and updated my research ot further develop my visual references.
  • I wanted to further look at the themes of parallel lives which I had been previously considering.
  • I think that it would be interesting to inject a "compare and contrast" aspect to my project.
  • I started to record my thinking about the similarities between doctors scrubs and prison uniforms in terms of them as garments.
  • How could I use the blue colour of scrubs and the iconic "prison orange" which the media and television puts such a heavy emphasis on to inform my colour scheme ?
  • I think that in order to create a classy-looking and sophisticated outcome I may have to tone down the colours slightly to remove the childhood associations that these two bright colours have.

Tuesday 6th March

  • Day spend at Westminster University for my interview for BA.


EDIT: all this time taken out of unit 7 was worth it ... I received an offer - Happy Sam !

Monday 5th March

  • I was disappointed with the progress which I made with my Unit 7 project today, considering the break I had already taken this past weekend to prepare for westminster however there was still more to do for me to feel comfortable with the folio and sketchbook I was submitting considering that westminster is (maybe/possibly/ could be) my first choice ? 

Saturday 3rd & Sunday 4th March

  • Having my Westminster interview coming up on Tuesday, I pressed the pause button on my Final Major Project in order to add and alter my portfolio for Westminster.
  • I was frustrated to have to break the flow of my unit 7 work and interrupt my progress which I was enjoying, however I needed  to put make my best effort for this interview, due to how much later in the year it was I knew that they would be expecting more from my portfolio than my earlier UAL ones.

Thursday 1st March

Tutorial with Helmert:

  • It was useful to know that both me and helmert agreed on which aspects of my research and research manipulation were the strongest.
  • the pages in my sketchbook where I looked at Grime culture and how I could take the iconic symbols of popular trainers and manipulate the form of the trainers around the body into a garment was my strongest work so far and I now am assured to continue along that vein.

Helmert also advised me on how to continue my research :

Research List/ Concept Development:

  • Walter Van Berendock
  • Prison Tattoos / stick and poke
  • communication in prison between inmates
  • what is banned in prison? belts? leadint he trausers hanging below the bum - belts banned to prevent suicide
  • masculinity
  • The class system
  • Addressing the class system and a conversation between the 2 worlds
  • breaking out of the vicious cycle of poverty etc
  • looking at the working class hero - bus driver etc
  • levels of hierarchy in jobs
  • Nicola Malkin - balmain meets a bus driver
  • Branding:
    • the prison orange - what if a bankers suit was prison orange ? What would it say ?
    • Climbing out of working class but still branded as prison fodder?


Tuesday 27th February

Did the workshop highlight any aspects of my project that I had not yet considered?

no - but it did encourage me to further explore out of a more literal area of research.

Did the workshop highlight any new interpretations of my research?

It did make me realise that I do need to visually communicate my concept very clearly in order to avoid misconceptions and mis-interpretations.

Did the workshop help me identify new areas of Research?


Did the workshop change the direction of my project ?


Monday 26th Feburary

  • I had a tutorial with Tamzin this afternoon after the morning's workshops and it was incredibly useful in helping me choose a direction.
  • I had two ideas originally for what paths to go down:
    1. Looking at my own life - creating a self portrait of what my life could have been if I hadn't been brought up in the environment I was - linking this back to male juvenile delinquency. Researching where I Iive and the two adjacent towns which have different reputations in terms of crime etc - quite literally looking at the wrong side of the tracks etc. How could the statistics ( in terms of crime and hosuing) of the towns where I have grown up - Elstree and Borehamwood - inform my design development?
    2. Again looking at the idea of parallel paths  and comparing the similarities between prison uniforms and Doctors Scrubs - how they are esssentially the same garment but in different colours. Where can I expand this path?

Tamzin helped me decide to further develop my 2nd idea - for a start it was already more visual and she thought that it was a less controversial approach to the same topic - leaving me in a position where I could comment on the same topic but leaving myself less vulnerable to criticism. 

Tamzin also suggested that I further research into these topics:

  1. Phycological tests
  2. Phycological tests performed on children?
  3. Ink blot test
  4. Raw Check test
  5. childrens drawings
  6. Netflix - central park 5
  7. Making a murder
  8. Posdcast "Serial"

Monday 26th Feburary

What did todays workshops highlight within your projects ? Weaknesses? Strengths?

Today I realised that event though I may have thought that I had narrowed down my projects themes in fact it was still incredibly broad and i needed to focus down and continue researching.

There was strength in my concept and topic, however my research needed refinement.

Do you have any new references/ research materials?

having discussed my project proposal and initial research with the group, I have though of and been suggested new topics and visuals to research.

  • Housing - council housing.
  • crime rates in areas where I live
  • Case studies 
    • research case studies where mixing classes has reduced the crime rate - city planning.
  • nature Vs nurture debate - twins separated at birth etc
  • Gentrification
  • 1970's architecture - CONCRETE
  • The Barbican
  • Brutilism
  • high fashion's appropriation of working class dress.

Have you identified any new materials to explore?

I want to explore using concrete as a material - inspired by 1970's architecture perhaps?

Also Sarah suggested possibly using welding mesh in addition to concrete- how could I weave in the mesh ? etc Fabric in combination to metal?

What Changes will you be making to your proposal after the workshops? 

I will be reconsidering the direction of my project proposal after the workshop - re- looking at my research topics and visuals and how they could inspire my design. Am I further looking at the class system and the contrast between the different classes in society ?




Monday 26th Feburary


Friday 16th Feburary

  • Having completed some further research and watched some enlightening Ted Talks I have decided to start by looking at Male Juvenile Delinquency.
  • I want to focus on this idea of "Parallel Journeys"
  • Visually how can I represent the fact that some sections of society are statistically more likely to end up in prison, due to poverty and or how the justice system treats them and sentences them with prejudice.
  • Could I create 2 outcomes that present the vastly two different paths that people of the same age could end up going down dependent of their life circumstance.

Thursday 15th Feburary

  • Today I worked through two ideas for my unit 7 project.
  • One idea was to continue and built off of my concept for Part two's "Strata" : where I looked at overpopulation, its effects on the environment, and possible drastic solutions to the problem such as human sterilisation and reintroducing deadly plagues and viruses back into society.
  • My second possible concept I was very excited about. Having recently watched a few documentaries on the topic, I wanted to look at the Prison System. Specifically in regards as to weather the purpose of prison is to rehabilitate or to punish.
  • I completely the 8 hashtag exercise twice, once for each idea.
  • On reflection i decided that the prison topic was a much richer subject matter in terms of research and material.
  • I spoke to Helmert about the idea and my concerns about it being too broad of a subject to tackle in the 7 week period.
  • He suggested to focus my research into Male Juvenile Delinquency.
  • This made a lot of sense: I became very inspired to research offenders in the section of society which i belong to: young males.


  • In speaking to my tutor and peers I have compiled a list of research points to start me off:
    • The cause of crime e.g education system etc
    • Male Juvenile delinquency
    • Art and design and craft as rehabilitation for prisoners - e.g knitting and crochet etc
    • Manufacturing as rehabilitation
    • the possibility of creating two outcomes, one addressing punishment and one addressing rehab
    • Looking at prison wardens and wardens in youth detention centres
    • Looking at homelessness and how a prison is a better option that the streets
    • Looking at the statistics and numbers: calories per inmate, space per inmate, staff per inmate, rehabilitation hours per inmate etc etc
    • Cost for the tax payer
    • John Walters - Film director
    • Juvi culture
    • Focus on an age range, location, case study
    • Pole Tax riot

Thursday 15th Feburary


Thursday 15th Feburary